II International Conference on Cristóbal Balenciaga logo

II International Cristóbal Balenciaga Conference
2 and 3 October, 2025

One of the main aims of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation is to promote research into the life and work of Cristóbal Balenciaga. The foundation is thus organising the second International Conference on the fashion designer, which is scheduled to take place on 2 and 3 October, 2025 at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria. 

 

This internationally oriented conference aims to serve as a platform for presenting innovative, high-quality research on the figure and legacy of the couturier in all his dimensions personal, business, creative, technical and others. It also welcomes papers that analyse the various biographical, cultural and professional contexts in which Balenciaga worked.

 

This edition will showcase 24 groundbreaking studies focusing on the couturier and his legacy, selected from over 60 proposals submitted by researchers from academic institutions around the world.

Programme

Thursday, 2 October


09:00 Accreditations and handing out of translation headsets
09:30 Institutional Welcome by Ibone Bengoetxea Otaolea, First Vice President and Minister of Culture and Linguistic Policy of the Basque Government
09:45 Key Speech by Lesley Miller

10:30 Museology
Donations and Exhibitions
Panel moderated by: Alexandra Palmer
10:35-10:50 A Gift of Affect. Rachel L. Mellon's Donation to the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum Alba Sanz
10:55-11:10 Wearing Balenciaga: Two Connecticut Clients David E. Lázaro
11:15-11:30 The World of Balenciaga. Reconstructing the Spanish Contribution to the 1974 Exhibition Tommaso Mozzati, Daniele Gennaioli

11:30 Coffee break

12:00 Communication
Cristóbal Balenciaga's Image Beyond Fashion
Panel moderated by: Simona Segre-Reinach
12:05-12:20 Balenciaga Through the Eyes of His Contemporaries Sara Skillen
12:25-12:40 Cristóbal Balenciaga through the Lens of the No-Do. De la elusión a la propaganda Danny Cruz, Isabel Durante
12:45-13:00 Conceptual Foundations of Cristóbal Balenciaga's Legacy in Disney + Series Gemma Muñoz, Paloma Díaz-Soloaga, Jesús Barrera
13:05-13:20 La figura de Balenciaga a través de sus obituarios en prensa Álvaro Pérez

13:20 Q&A session for the Communication and Museology panels

13:40 End morning session

15:00 Handing out of translation headsets

15:15 Design
Creative Processes, Connections and Influences
Panel moderated by: Emily Brayshaw
15:20-15:35 Dress as Cultural Language. Translational Aspects in Cristóbal Balenciaga's Creative Process Paula Nunes, Isabel Orestes
15:40-15:55 El Fondo Lorenzo Riva en perspectiva Barthesiana Gabriela Muñagorri
16:00-16:15 Balenciaga and Grès. Exploring the Form Anabela Becho
16:20-16:35 Chester Weinberg Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
16:40-16:55 Balenciaga and Women Fashion Artists in Serbia Stefan Žarić

16:55 Q&A session for the Processes and Creative Connections panels

17:15 Education
Transmissions Educational Project
Panel moderated by: Jone de Felipe
17:20-17:35 Cristóbal Balenciaga × Central Saint Martins Heather Sproat
17:40-17:55 Transmissions and Iceland University of the Art Katrín M. Káradótti

18:00 Visit to the Transmissions educational project exhibition and end of streaming session

18:30 Day ends. Venue closes.

18:45 Soirée in the museum
*To be pre-booked.
18:45 SELF-GUIDED VISIT OF THE EXHIBITIONS
19:30 DRINKS RECEPTION-DINNER STARTS
21:30 SOIRÉE ENDS

Friday, 3 October


09:30 Handing out of translation headsets

10:00 Brand Imaging and Marketing Licences and Copies. Legal and Commercial Aspects.
Panel moderated by: Valerie Steele
10:05-10:20 Balenciaga & Italy Isabella Campagnol
10:25-10:40 Cristóbal Balenciaga in Florence. The Forgotten Legacy of Couture Copies Chiara Faggella
10:45-11:00 Balenciaga's Heritage in Italian Fashion. The Federico Forquet and the Roberto Capucci Cases Between Aesthetics and Marketing Sofia Gnoli, Annamaria Esposito
11:05-11:20 Cristóbal Balenciaga and Australia. Importing, Reproducing and Adapting Balenciaga Couture in Sydney, 1938-1968 Alexandra Barter

11:20 Coffee break

12:00 Showcasing the Brand. The Image of the Balenciaga Fashion House
Panel moderated by: Carlos Naya
12:05-12:20 Balenciaga y la arquitectura en San Sebastián José Ángel Medina & Joakin Aramendy
12:25-12:40 Balenciaga Models in the 60s in Paris Alexandra Handjian

12:40 Q&A session of the Brand Imaging and Marketing Panel

13:00 Closing remarks by Karena de Perthuis

13:45 Day ends.

Speakers

October 2nd

Alba Sanz
University of Edinburgh

Alba Sanz Álvarez is a PhD candidate at the University of Edinburgh. Her PhD working title is “Donors’ Traces: From Garment to Museum”. This project revolves around the presence and absence of stories from the donors of three fashion collections once the objects are in their new institutional homes under the interdisciplinary guidance of her supervisory team with Juliette Macdonald, Frances Fowle and Christopher Breward. Alba holds two master's degrees from Stockholm University in Fashion Studies and Fashion Communication and Marketing, as well as professional experience working in the Swedish high-end fashion brand Acne Studios. Since 2021, she has volunteered as the Conference and Events manager for the Association of Dress Historians supporting all their activities and is a member of their Executive Committee.
David E. (Ned) Lazaro
Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art

David E. (Ned) Lazaro is the Associate Curator of Costume and Textiles at the Wadsworth Atheneum Museum of Art in Hartford, Connecticut. He holds a master’s degree in fashion and textile history from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst. Ned has researched, published, lectured, and taught on various aspects of dress history from the seventeenth through twentieth centuries. His research focuses on design history, the aesthetics of fashion, and identity formation.
Dr. Daniele Gennaioli
UDIT University

Professor of Fashion History and Coordinator of the Fashion Department at UDIT University. His PhD thesis in Arts and Social Sciences from the Polytechnic University of Madrid focuses on the relationship between Spanish fashion and American magazines during the Franco regime, especially during the years of desarrollo. He published several contributions in academic journals such as ZoneModa Journal, Historia Contemporánea, and Journal of Spanish Cultural Studies.
Dr. Tommaso Mozzatti
University of Perugia

Associate Professor at the Dipartimento di Lettere of the University of Perugia, he was a fellow at the Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florence, Mias-Casa de Velázquez in Madrid, the Metropolitan Museum of New York, and Villa I Tatti-The Harvard University Center for Italian Renaissance Studies. His research focuses on Spanish cultural policy between the Sixties and the Seventies, during the years of desarrollo: on this topic, he published several articles in international art history journals, such as Archivo Español de Arte, Sculpture Journal, and Met Bulletin.
Dr. Sara Skillen
University of Portsmouth

Sara Skillen is currently an Associate Lecturer in Visual Culture at the University of Portsmouth. She holds a PhD in fashion studies from the Centre for Fashion Studies, Stockholm University. In 2011 she gained an MA with distinction in History of Design and Material Culture at Brighton University. Before starting her PhD research at Stockholm University, Sara worked in the London fashion business for the couturier Deborah Milner, at Elle and Wallpaper* magazines, and for milliners Philip Treacy, Stephen Jones and Rachel Trevor Morgan. Areas of research expertise include mid-late twentieth century design, particularly history of dress and the material culture of fashion, and the construction of dress history narratives through personal memory and identity. Lecturing and teaching experience encompasses fashion history, material culture, fashion branding, contemporary fashion, fashion media, fashion film, visual culture and consumer culture, at Foundation, BA and Masters levels.
Danny Cruz Pérez
University of Murcia

Graduated in Art History from the University of Murcia, where he completed the Master's Degree in Research and Management of Historical-Artistic and Cultural Heritage. He received a Collaboration Grant from the Ministry of Education and Vocational Training (MEFP), carried out in the Department of Art History of the aforementioned university during the 2022/2023 academic year. Currently, he is a PhD student in the Doctorate program in History, Geography and History of Art: Society, Territory and Heritage at the University of Murcia, with a dissertation titled Stitching the Scene: Cristóbal Balenciaga and Costume Design for Film and Theater. His most recent publications explore intersections between fashion and cinema, including Building icons. Fashion designers and costume design in the 60s cinema: Chanel, Givenchy and Saint Laurent, published in Issue No. 3 of Revista Alejandría.
Dr. Isabel Durante Asensio
University of Murcia

Assistant Professor and Secretary of the Department of Art History at the University of Murcia, as well as curator, cultural manager, and film critic for Onda Cero since 1999. Her research focuses on contemporary practice and thought, film history, and issues related to historiographic renewal and the inclusion of women in art history. She is the secretary and a member of the editorial board of Imafronte (indexed in JCR), a reviewer for the University of Murcia Publishing Service as an expert evaluator, and has held other roles including Technical Specialist at MUBAM, Curator at the FCP Cristóbal Gabarrón Museum, Museum Technical Advisor at the CARM, Advisor to the CARM Department of Culture, and Deputy Director of the International Festival of Cinema and Heritage.
Dr. Gemma Muñoz Domínguez
Villanueva University

Gemma Muñoz Domínguez is an associate professor of Fashion Branding at Villanueva University. She has more than ten years of professional experience in the fashion industry and advertising. In recent years, she has published several academic articles related to brand co-creation in digital environments, fashion film, brand heritage or the use of hashtags as identity, extension and expansion of brands, for example. She also develops her academic activity as Honorary Collaborator of the Department of Applied Communication at the Complutense University of Madrid, where she obtained her doctorate degree in 2023, as well as being an external collaborator of the Centre for Research on Fashion and Contemporary Phenomena (CIMF) of the Villanueva University.
Dr. Paloma Díaz Soloaga
Complutense University

Paloma Díaz Soloaga is a full professor of Intangible assets and Fashion at Complutense University, she has been visiting professor at Harvard University, FIT in NY, University of Illinois at Urbana Champaign, and Glasgow Caledonian University. Director of the Degree in Fashion Communication and Management at Villanueva University for more than 15 years. Author of “Introduction to Organizational Culture” Ed. Sintesis, 2019; “Communication and Fashion Brands Management” Ed. Gustavo Gili, 2014 among others, as well as more than 40 academic articles. Member of the Editorial Board of Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. Jury of the International Fashion Film Festivals of La Jolla, Canada and Madrid.
Jesús Barrera López
Villanueva University

Journalist trained in Seville and specialized in Corporate, Institutional and Political Communication at the Complutense University of Madrid. He has been part of private institutions managing the communication of the Círculo Mercantil e Industrial de Sevilla, as well as relevant multinationals such as WPP or Llorente y Cuenca. On the other hand, he has worked in conventional media, working as a radio presenter and collaborating in magazines. Currently, he is editor and section head at Diario Hércules. He combines these functions with his role as a pre-doctoral researcher, carrying out his thesis on Communication and Fashion under the supervision of Dr. Paloma Díaz Soloaga and Dr. María Villanueva Cobo del Prado, as well as being an external collaborator of the Centre for Research on Fashion and Contemporary Phenomena (CIMF) of the Villanueva University.
Dr. Álvaro Pérez
Francisco de Vitoria University

Álvaro Pérez Álvarez is a research professor at Universidad Francisco de Vitoria. He holds a PhD in Communication and degrees in Journalism and Philosophy from Universidad de Navarra. He served as Dean of the Faculty of Communication at Universidad de Montevideo (Uruguay) from 2018 to 2025. His research focuses on narrative journalism, with a special emphasis on the journalist Manuel Chaves Nogales (Seville, 1897 - London, 1944), the biographical profile genre, and the new biography. He has published numerous articles in specialized academic journals and presented papers at international conferences on these topics.
Paula Nunes Rodrigues da Silva
Mackenzie Presbyterian University, São Paulo, Brazil

Paula Nunes Rodrigues da Silva holds a Bachelor's degree in Journalism from Mackenzie Presbyterian University in São Paulo, Brazil, and is currently pursuing a Master's in Education, Art, and Cultural History at the same university. Her thesis focuses on analyzing Cristóbal Balenciaga’s creative process, exploring the complex cultural, artistic, and communicative aspects of his creations. She is a student researcher at the research group Language, Identity, Society: Studies on the Media, affiliated to the Brazilian National Council for research (CNPq) and the UPM.
Dr. Isabel Orestes Silveira
Mackenzie Presbyterian University, São Paulo, Brazil

PhD in Communication and Semiotics, from the Pontifical Catholic University of São Paulo (2010). Master in Visual Arts, from São Paulo State University (2006). Bachelor and Licentiate in Pedagogy from São Marcos University (1990). Bachelor in Art Education from Mackenzie Presbyterian University - UPM (1995). She also holds a specialization degree in Psychopedagogical Foundations of Art and Communication from UPM (2003). Professor at UPM since 1986, is currently affiliated to the Graduate Program in Education, Art and Cultural History. She also teaches at the Communications department at the Paulus College of Technology and Communication – FAPCOM, since 2008. She is a leader and researcher in the research group Language, Identity, Society: Studies on the Media, with CNPq (Brazil’s National Council for Scientific and Technological Development) and UPM.
Dr. Gabriela Muñagorri
University of the Basque Country

She is Assistant Professor at the Faculty of Fine Arts of Leioa UPV/EHU. She is an artist and designer, and as experience in fashion related teaching since 2004: 2004-2009. LCI Barcelona, Higher School of Design; 2012. Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum CBM; 2012, 2013. Arteleku Art Center, San Sebastián; 2014-2015. CreaNavarra, Study Center, Pamplona. Publications: 2017. “Real clothing and Performativity. An extension of Roland Barthes”, in Fashion through History: Costumes, Symbols, Communication (Volume II). UK: Cambridge Scholars Publishing; 2019. “Cristóbal Balenciaga´s transformations of 1967. The power of subversive practice”, in La Forza della moda. Potere, rappresentazione, comunicazione. Roma: Edizioni Nuova Cultura; 2022. “Contemplating a legacy: Cristóbal Balenciaga and the work of Nicolas Ghesquière”, in First International Cristóbal Balenciaga Conference Proceedings. Getaria: CBM.
Dr. Anabela Becho
Faculty of Architecture, University of Lisbon

Anabela Becho is a fashion historian, curator, researcher and lecturer based in Lisbon, Portugal. She has a PhD in Design (specialising in fashion), a master’s and a degree in Painting, and a graduation in Fashion Design. She is a professor of Fashion Design Criticism at the Faculty of Architecture of the University of Lisbon and has extensive experience in museology in the fashion field. She writes about fashion and art and has collaborated with several publications: Expresso, Electra, Vogue, Relance, Elle, Blitz, among others. She regularly presents her research at international conferences. She is the author of the exhibition and book Viver a sua Vida, Georges Dambier e a Moda/Vivre sa vie, Georges Dambier et la mode (Direção Geral do Património Cultural 2022), several articles and book chapters, including “Kindred Spirits: The Radical Poetry of Japanese and Belgian Designers”, Fashion Game Changers Reinventing the 20th Century Silhouette (Bloomsbury 2016). Recently, she published the article “Suspending Time: Matter and Memory in Madame Grès’ Pleating Technique”, Fashion Theory (Taylor & Francis, 2024).
Dr. Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
Independent researcher

Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell is a fashion historian, curator, and journalist based in Los Angeles. She is the author of Fashion Victims: Dress at the Court of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette (Yale, 2015), Worn on This Day: The Clothes That Made History (Running Press, 2019), The Way We Wed: A Global History of Wedding Fashion (Running Press, 2020), Red, White, and Blue on the Runway: The 1968 White House Fashion Show and the Politics of American Style (Kent State University Press, 2022), and Skirts: Fashioning Modern Femininity in the 20th Century (St. Martin’s Press, 2022). She has written about fashion, art, and culture for The Atlantic, The Washington Post, Politico, Slate, and The Wall Street Journal. She is currently writing a biography of Chester Weinberg, supported by the National Endowment for the Humanities Public Scholars program.
Stefan Žarić
University of Novi Sad

Stefan Žarić is a PhD candidate at the University of Novi Sad, Serbia, and the former Fulbright Scholar in Fashion History at the University of Massachusetts, currently serving as the Board Member to ICOM Costume Committee and Fashion History Contributor at ELLE Serbia. He has curated the first haute couture exhibition in Serbia (Jean Paul Gaultier) and actively researches both fashion studies in Serbia and the fashion historical exchange between Serbia and the West, with early modern and modern focus. Prior to developing his PhD on the subject of fashion history in Shakespeare’s Great Tragedies, Stefan studied, specialized, and lectured in fashion history and fashion curation at the universities and museums in the former Yugoslav and Balkan region, the USA, Estonia, the UK, and Japan.
Heather Sproat
Central Saint Martins UAL

As Pathway leader for the Womenswear Fashion Design course I am responsible for the management of the course and tutoring both second and final year students. I have creatively directed graduate design research projects for Penhaligons, Bvlgari, Sephora, Paul Frank, and Diadora. I have worked on Student projects with Louis Vuitton, Dior, Celine, Mulberry, Canada Goose, Nike, Victoria & Albert Museum, Christóbal Balenciaga Museoa. I was an Associate lecturer at CSM for 7 years before being awarded the role of pathway leader and have taught there for 24 years. I have worked as a designer at Louis Vuitton in Paris and before that studied Haute couture tailoring at Christian Dior in Paris. I have been external examiner for the fashion courses at both Falmouth and Limerick universities. I researched and curated a chapter of the book “Pattern “published by Phaidon in March 2013, and a chapter in Teaching Sustainability at higher education Level published by Stringer 2016.
Katrín María Káradóttir
Iceland University of the Arts

Katrín María Káradóttir is formally educated in tailoring and dressmaking and she also studied fashion design in Paris where she gathered professional experience with houses such as John Galliano and Lutz Huelle. Katrín is a slow fashion pioneer in Iceland and won the Indriði Award in 2013 for her work at ELLA, awarded by the Icelandic association of fashion designers for quality and excellence. She has 20 years’ experience in teaching, holds a MA degree in Arts Education and in her research focuses on crafts, sustainability and higher education. Katrín is currently a Professor at the Iceland University of the Arts in Reykjavík where she teaches fashion design and history of fashion.

October 3rd

Isabella Campagnol
Instituto Marangoni

Campagnol is a historian specialized in fashion and textile history. From 2006 to 2014 she has been the curator of the Rubelli Historical Collection and Archives, in Venice, Italy. She joined Istituto Marangoni, Milan, in 2015 where she currently teaches History of Fashion. She is the author of: Style from the Nile. Egyptomania in Fashion from the 18th century to the contemporary, Barnsley: Pen & Sword, 2022; Invisible Luxuries. Forbidden Fashions in Venetian Monasteries from the 15th to the 18th Century, (Costume Society of America Series), Lubbock : Texas Tech University Press, 2014.
 
New York Times review: www.nytimes.com/2013/09/24/fashion/Fashion-in-the-Venetian-Convents-of-Old
Dr. Chiara Faggella
Lund University; Syracuse University

Chiara Faggella is a fashion historian focusing on Italy’s fashion industry and its postwar trans-European connections. She was a Visiting Fellow at the European University Institute of Florence in 2019-2020 and a Research Fellow at the Politecnico di Milano in 2021-2022. From 2013 to 2022 she was an adjunct lecturer in fashion studies at Stockholm University. She currently teaches Italian fashion culture at Lund University, Sweden, and Syracuse University, Florence. She recently collaborated on the Salvatore Ferragamo 1898-1960 exhibition and catalog and co-edited the volume L’Italia al lavoro with Paola Cordera (2023). Her upcoming book Becoming Couture: The Italian Fashion Industry after the Second World War is published by Manchester University Press.
Dr. Sofia Gnoli
Department of Communication, Arts and Media, IULM University, Milan

Sofia Gnoli is an Associate Professor at IULM University in Milan, where she teaches the History of Fashion, Sociology of Events and Creative Industries Archives. She is also a member of the PhD in Visual and Media Studies Committee. She writes for Repubblica, La Stampa, Il Venerdì and Vogue Italia. Curator of historic archives including that of Federico Forquet. Fashion consultant for TV documentaries as Moda: una rivoluzione italiana (Sky Original, 2024). For the Parco Archeologico del Colosseo she curated the exhibition Rara Avis. Moda in volo alle Uccelliere Farnesiane. Among her publications: Moda. Dalla nascita della haute-couture a oggi (Carocci, 2020), The Origins of Italian Fashion 1900-1945 (V&A Publishing, 2014). Her main research interests are fashion studies, fashion history, fashion and communication, sociology of fashion, heritage, and fashion journalism.
Dr. Annamaria Esposito
Department of Business, Law, Economics and Consumer Behavior, IULM University

Annamaria Esposito is an Associate Professor in Management at the Department of Business, Law, Economics and Consumption, Faculty of Arts, Fashion and Tourism, at IULM University, Milan, Italy, where she teaches Fashion and Design Marketing, Event Management, Marketing, and Communication. She is a teaching board member of the PhD in Communication, Markets and Society; she is a member of the scientific committee of the Centre for Employee Relations and Communication at IULM University, the International Conference on Applied Economics, and the IULM Milan Virtual Museum and Memory: Destruction, Reconstruction, and Recovery. She has served as a referee for national and international journals. Her main research interests are fashion marketing and communication, heritage marketing, marketing of luxury goods and services, museum marketing, event management and marketing.
Alexandra Barter
University of Technology Sydney

I am a designer and researcher with a passion for tailoring, couture craftsmanship, artisanal textiles and local manufacturing. I studied Business and European Studies at the University of Technology, Sydney, then worked in Europe before returning to Australia to study fashion design at The Sydney Institute of Technology. After developing my independent womenswear label, I moved to Cambodia, where I established an artisanal boutique and developed an in-house programme dedicated to teaching young women pattern cutting and garment construction skills. In 2019, I moved to London where I joined the MA programme at London College of Fashion and received a Distinction for my research into how European haute couture pattern cutting and garment construction techniques were adapted by manufacturers in postwar Australia. I am now excited to build on this research and rejoin UTS for my PhD project commencing November 2024.
Dr. José Ángel Medina Murua
School of Architecture, University of Navarra

José Ángel Medina Murua is Design Profesor in the School of Architecture of the Universidad de Navarra, since 2006. He also has been involved in the Direction of this School as Dean, between 2012 and 2015, and as Vicedean since 2023. He has been lecturer in different Universities as Politécnico de Monterrey, México, PUCE in Quito and ETH Zurich. Since 2020 he is de Director of the Basque Institute of Architecture. His academic activity is completed with the profesional praxis of architecture.
Joakin Aramendy
School of Architecture, University of Navarra

Joakin Aramendy is a student of the Master’s Degree in Architecture (enabling qualification) at the University of Navarra, Madrid campus. He completed his Bachelor’s Final Project, titled Coser el Espacio: A Study of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s Workshops in San Sebastián, under the supervision of Professor José Ángel Medina Murua.
Alexandra Handjian
Independent researcher

I am the daughter of Michèle and Armand Handjian. They worked both in the fashion industry in the 60s. I grew up among fabrics and collection. My father was the founder of a prêt à porter de luxe house in Paris in 1956. My mother was a model for haute couture houses from 1956 starting with Bruyère to 1966 with Ungaro and Courrèges and specially Balenciaga from 1959 to June 1963. I got a Master of Business Management in 1992 from la Sorbonne and a certificate of Sustainable Business Management from the University of Cambridge Institute in 2024. And I worked as a private banker for 25 years.

The purpose of my research and my paper is to share the light on the work and life of the models that make “rendre vivant” enliven Balenciaga creations and ideas Although Balenciaga garments are well known, women who was modelling are invisible. I want to highlight their stories back to the 60s and the friendship life in the cabin.

Scientific Committee

Dr. Miren Arzalluz
Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao

 

Miren Arzalluz graduated in History from Deusto University, has a Master's Degree in Comparative Politics from the London School of Economics, and a Master's Degree in History of Art, where she majored in History of Dress from the Courtauld Institute of Art. In 2021, Miren completed her PhD at Deusto University, focusing on the rise of fashion on the Côte Basque as a fundamental factor of its development as an international summer tourist destinations, and on the key role that names such as Gabrielle Chanel and Cristóbal Balenciaga played in that regard.

 

She was Head of Collections and Exhibitions at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation between 2006 and 2013, when she published her book Cristóbal Balenciaga. La forja del maestro (1895-1936) (English edition: ‘Cristóbal Balenciaga. The Making of a Master (1895-1936)’. Between 2013 and 2017, Miren worked as a freelance curator and researcher, working with museums including the Palais Galliera in Paris and the Mode Museum (MoMu) in Antwerp.

 

In January 2018, she was appointed as Director of the Palais Galliera Fashion Museum in Paris, where she headed its refurbishment. In 2024, she was chosen by the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao board to replace Juan Ignacio Vidarte as the museum's director, from his retirement in April 2025.






Dr. Ana Balda
Navarra University

 

Ana Balda is a full professor (officially accredited by ANECA in 2024). In 2013, she joined the Department of Audiovisual Culture and Communication at Navarra University as an associate professor, where she teaches History of Fashion and Fashion Illustration & Photography.

 

Since she completed her PhD on the communication at the Balenciaga fashion house (1937-1968), Balda has continued to research the life, works and context of the Basque designer. Her research work has led to her curating several exhibitions and to publishing articles in academic journals and specialist books.

 

Ana co-authored with María Kublin Kublin-Balenciaga. A Fashion Record (Thames & Hudson, 2024).






Dr. Emily Brayshaw
University of Technology, Sydney

 

Emily Brayshaw is internationally known for her work on the visual culture of fashion and costume design. She is an honorary research fellow at the University of Technology Sydney.

 

Her interdisciplinary research analyses the past, present and future of critical fashion and costume design, with a focus on the identities, the luxury, the costumes per se, the corporeality and methodologies of design from the 19th century to the present.

 

At the same time, Emily is actively involved with the artistic scene in Sydney, where she has worked as a costume designer for critically acclaimed theatrical productions. 






Dr. Sophie Kurkdjian
American University of Paris

 

Professor Sophie Kurkdjian has lectured in the social and cultural history of the garment and fashion at the American University of Paris since September 2020. She has been a research associate at the Institut d’histoire du temps présent (CNRS) since 2012, where she runs a research seminar on the cultural history of fashion.

 

In 2018, Sophie set up the Culture(s) de Mode research network in conjunction with the French Ministry of Culture. As an exhibition curator, she organised the Mode & Femmes, 14–18 show at the Forney Library in Paris in 2017.

 

After completing her cultural history studies, she earned her PhD in 2013 with a dissertation on the history of the fashion press and publishers in the early 20th century. After completing a research project on the historical construction of the standing of Paris as the 'capital of fashion' between 1858 and 1947, she is currently studying the history of the work and workers in the fashion and garment industry between 1880 and 1940.






Dr. Lesley E. Miller
University of Glasgow

 

Lesley Miller is Professor Emerita in Dress and Textile History and Affiliate of the University of Glasgow. From 2013 till 2025 she was Professor of Dress and Textile History at the University of Glasgow and from 2005 until 2021 Senior Curator of Textiles and Dress in the Furniture, Textiles and Fashion Department at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, before which she lectured in various UK universities and art schools.

 

Her first book on Balenciaga was published in 1993 and the second edition in 2007. This latter was subsequently extensively revised to accompany Balenciaga: Shaping Fashion (V&A, 2016-7), an exhibition for which she was consultant curator. Lesley is currently pursuing research on 18th-century French and Spanish silk design and commerce for her next monograph, having already published widely on different aspects of the subject. She was recently appointed an honorary member (Research) of the Advisory Committee of the Fundación Cristóbal Balenciaga.






Dr. Carlos Naya
Navarra University

 

Carlos Naya has been Dean of the School of Architecture at Navarra University since 2021. He received the Outstanding PhD Dissertation Award for his theoretical research into the main documents and manifestos of the artistic avant-garde of the 20th century.

 

He was a visiting researcher at the GSAPP of Columbia University (New York, 2007-2008), where he worked with leading theoreticians of architecture, including Kenneth Frampton, Mark Wigley and Joan Ockman. Carlos has lectured at ISEM Fashion Business School (Navarra University, Madrid), as well as at different European and US schools of architecture, including the Architectural Association School of Architecture (London).

 

Carlos is currently working with the London College of Fashion (UAL, London) on organising an international master's degree.






Dr. Alexandra Palmer
University of Toronto

 

Alexandra Palmer has taught about the history of textiles and fashion for Art History at the Universityof Toronto since 2003. Currently she focuses on the impact of climate change on textiles and fashion. She was the Nora E. Vaughan Senior Curator at the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM)overseeing the collection of 45,000 western textiles and fashion.

 

She is an editor and author of the award winning books, Dior: A New Look, A New Enterprise (V&A 2009, revised 2019), translated Christian Dior visionnaire: 1947-1957 (Martiniere Bl 2024); Christian Dior, History & Modernity 1947-1957, (Hirmer 2018) and Couture & Commerce: The transatlantic fashion trade in the 1950s, (University of British Columbia Press 2001). Alexandra is currently writing a book on the extended lives of fashions.

 

In 2023 she was appointed Chevalier dans l’Ordre des Palmes académiques for her contribution to French culture.






Dr. Elisa Palomino
Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center

 

Elisa Palomino has 25 years' experience designing for luxury brands such as John Galliano, Christian Dior, Moschino and Roberto Cavalli, and her work is where fashion, education and anthropology meet.

 

She has a PhD in Anthropology and Sustainable Fashion from the London College of Fashion, is an international conference speaker, and was the Director of the Fashion Print Department at Central Saint Martins for a decade.

 

Elisa has successfully led EU-funded projects, such as FishSkin on the Horizon 2020 programme, and has been the recipient of prestigious scholarships, including the Fulbright, the Library of Congress Kluge Fellowship, the Max Planck for the History of Science, the Fondazione Cini, the Kunsthistorisches Institut in Florence, the Max-Planck Institute and ANAMED.

 

She is currently a Research Associate at the Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center, where she specialises in indigenous fashion of the Arctic. She is also an educational advisor for the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation and the co-creator of the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum Transmissions educational programme.






Dr. Karena De Perthuis
Western Sydney University

 

Karena De Perthuis is full professor at the School of Humanities and Communication Arts of Western Sydney University and co-editor-in-chief of the International Journal of Fashion Studies.

 

Her research explores the intersection of fashion, media and the body. Recent publications include work on fashion photography, fashion performativity and fashion utopias Instagram influencers and Tilda Swinton.

 

She is currently working on a monograph entitled The Fashionable Ideal: Undoing Bodies and Images in Fashion, which will be published by Bloomsbury in 2024.






Dr. Véronique Pouillard
Oslo University

 

Dr. Véronique Pouillard is full professor at the Department of Archaeology, Conservation and History at Oslo University. Her research is in the field of business and economic history, with special focus on areas including the media, luxury, manufacturing, and the history of intellectual property rights, topics on which she has published books and articles.

 

She is the author of Paris to New York: The Transatlantic Fashion Industry in the Twentieth Century (Harvard University Press, 2021) and co-editor of The Oxford Handbook of Luxury Business (Oxford University Press, 2021).

 

Véronique was lead researcher on the HERA II project on The Enterprise of Culture, funded by the European Science Foundation, and one of the four coordinators of the Nordic Branding project funded by the UiO:Norden transdisciplinary initiative (2017-2019).

 

At present, Véronique heads the CREATIVE IPR – The History of Intellectual Property Rights in the Creative Industries (2019-2025), funded by the ERC Consolidator programme (Grant 818523). She is currently writing a book on the history of the internationalization and the colonization of intellectual property.






Dr. Giorgio Riello
European University Institute, Fiesole

 

Giorgio Riello is Professor of Global History of the Modern Era at the European University Institute in Fiesole (Italy). He is also professor of Global Culture and History at the University of Warwick (United Kingdom) (currently on leave of absence).

 

He is the author of A Foot in the Past (2006), Cotton: The Fabric that Made the Modern World (2013), Luxury: A Rich History (2016, co-written with P. McNeil), Back in Fashion: Western Fashion from the Middle Ages to the Present (2020) and Tutte le perle del mondo (2023, co-written with M.G. Muzzarelli and L. Mola).

 

He co-edited The Right to Dress: Sumptuary in a Global Perspective (2019), Dressing Global Bodies (2020) and The Cambridge Global History of Fashion (2 vols., 2023).






Dr. Simona Maria Segre-Reinach
University of Bologna

 

Simona Segre-Reinach is full professor of Fashion Studies at the University of Bologna. She has written extensively on fashion from a global perspective.

 

Her more recent publication include: Fashion in Multiple Chinas. Chinese Styles in the Transglobal Landscape (2019), Biki. French Visions for Italian Fashion (2019) and Per un vestire gentile. Moda e liberación animale (2022).

 

Simona is a member of the editorial committee of the Fashion Theory and Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty journals.






Dr. Valerie Steele
Fashion Institute of Technology

 

Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), where she has personally organized more than 25 exhibitions since 1997.

 

She is author or editor of over 30 books, translated into Chinese, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish. She is also founder and editor in chief of Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, the first peer-reviewed academic journal in Fashion Studies.

 

From 2014 to the present, Valerie has appeared on The Business of Fashion 500 list, as one of the people shaping the global fashion industry.






Igor Uria
Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa

 

Igor Uria graduated in Fine Arts from the University of the Basque Country, where he majored in Conservation and Restoration. He went on to specialise at Deusto and Alcalá de Henares universities, along with studying at the CIETA in Lyon and Curating Fashion and Dress on the V&A International Training Course in London.

 

In 2004, Igor was put in charge of the Conservation and Records Department at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation. He is currently Director of Collections at Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa, a post that he has held since 2014, and has curated most of the exhibitions at the institution. 

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